All good things must come to an end.

Loch Tamnabhaigh

Recycling buoys - swing for the Kayakey Kid

Next morning, we woke up to a flat calm Loch Tamnabhaigh, unlike the first evening we stayed there.

Iain forming a buoy band!

Loch Reasort

Lazing on a sunny afternoon

Murty's gone paddling

We head off down the loch and round to Loch Cravadale, stopping on the way to recycle some fishing buoys.

Hubby dear

Mike - nice hat!

 After lunch we carried on past Traigh Mheilein (yet more unbelievably beautiful beaches), through more caves until we reached the beach opposite Cearstaigh.

 The colours coming into this bay were something else. The sand and sea looked tropical, unfortunately the temperature of the water wasn't as we found out after our paddling.

What happens when Hubby dear doesn't quite bring his boat up the beach far enough!!!

 For some strange reason, we decided to have a mass plunge in the sea off the back of the Cuma. Standing on the back deck, it suddenly seemed a long way down, but in we went. Carl dived in head first which was interesting as he hadn't let all the air out of his drysuit which meant he had extremely fat, floaty feet. This was also the bay where Mike quite literally hung up his hat for the last time, before it blew off the back of the boat and was last seem drifting off into a beautiful, sunny evening! We had our last tea in this bay before heading back to Loch Miavaig.

Mass plunge

Jings! It's COLD!

The hat - R.I.P.

My one disappointment in the whole trip had been the fact that being on the water so much, it was probably my best chance of seeing a basking shark, but to no avail!
The paddlers were all a bit sleepy by now, obviously swimming was extremely tiring. As we were getting close to Gallan Head, the engines were cut, then Murty appeared and announced there was a shark. I've never seen a bunch of dozy heads move so quickly and sure enough, it was swimming just in front of the boat. After paddling with so many Puffins, in so many fantastic areas with so many stunning beaches, this just finished the trip off for me, I was well chuffed.

The Shark

We spent the last night at Loch Miavaig before saying our goodbyes.
I would be in two minds as to whether I would want to go back to St Kilda. We had such great company, great food, great weather, great trips - I'd be worried in case the next trip didn't match this trip - on the other hand if Hubby dear did suggest going again, I'd probably be on the deck of the Cuma (the only way to go!) before Murdo or Michaella knew what hit them.

The group

Spitting on Taransey, Tsk, Tsk!



Paddling through the Sound of Taransay

Next morning we leave the peaceful bay and paddle round past Luskentyre dunes. These sands are one of the few memories I have of Harris from when I was young in the year dot. We carry on through the crystal clear turquoise waters until we reach the Taransay spit where two tides collide as they meet. The day we were there the sea was lovely and calm, but there was still a bit spitting going on. I can only imagine what it would be like with a bit of a swell.

Not too much spitting

Coffee time

 After a quick break, we carried on to the end of Taransay and crossed over to Loch Leosavay where we had lunch in another stunning setting.

Loch Leosavay

Carl chilling out

Amhuinnsuidhe Castle

 We then carried on round to Scarp with even more wonderful beaches.

Afternoon break

Tough paddling

 After a rather inelegant exit from my kayak, I thought it was time for a bit of self rescue practise and generally getting wet. The Cuma met us in the next bay before we headed over to Loch Tamnabhaigh again for the evening.

Oops!

Boreray and Stac Iain

We are by now settling into our morning routine, Anne rearranging her bags, me continually losing my glasses, Murty eventually emerging from down below and Iain always getting the corner seat . The three non paddling passengers sit tucked in the other corner, possibly worried incase Anne packs them away, but more than likely still shell shocked at the organised chaos that is a group of paddlers getting ready for the day. They only went ashore once during their trip. I think after we left, they sat back with relief and enjoyed the peace and quiet.

Pick up a Puffin!

Hubby dear with Hirta

Anne

Murty

Murdo took us over to Boreray, where we launched next to a mass of Puffins, the most I'd ever seen together. We set off up towards Stac Lee with thousands of Gannets swirling overhead.

Iain claiming Stac Iain

As we approached the stac, Iain jumps into the water and makes a general request for someone to look after his boat. A few jaws dropped at him doing this and stayed dropped when neither Hubby dear nor I batted an eyelid, this being the sort of thing Iain enjoys doing, we're quite used to it. As Iain clung to some slimy bits of seaweed and possibly needed a manicure after scrambling at the rocks, he has claimed Stac Lee as Stac Iain as probably no-one has set foot on the island for a while.

Mike

Me





Back in the boat, we carry on north and round Stac an Armin, then down the east side of Boreray, where the waves were getting interesting bouncing back off the island. We certainly weren't exploring any nooks and crannies on this side. As we rounded the bottom, everything settled down again and we headed back to the Cuma via some caves after more island claiming from Iain and Hubby dear.

Carl

More island claiming!

After more nosh, with the boats tied down, it was time to leave St Kilda. It amazes me how it has managed to survive thousands of years constantly getting battered by huge storms (not while we were there!) with having so many arches, caves and tunnels, it must be like a giant Aero. It truly is a magical place.

That evening we stayed in the beautiful bay at Taransay. Another evening of serious discussions ensued, such as whisky or Bailey's? or what about both!

Beautiful Taransay bay

Over, under, through and round St Kilda

Next morning after Anne had arranged her bags, then rearranged her bags, then rearranged them again and I had lost my glasses for about the 3rd time that morning we were ready for paddling.

The gap from the outside

Mike at the gap on the inside

It was a busy bay we launched into as a cruise ship had arrived during the night and was busy ferrying passengers over to St Kilda. We started off towards the point to see what the conditions would be like, but found that they were a bit bumpy, so we made our way over to Dun again, this time staying on the bayside. Murty took us over to what looked like a solid cliff. Tucked into it was the other side of the passage we had been in the previous evening. Hubby dear disappeared into it, closely followed by Iain. I went to have a wee look and ended up going through as well. This gap was a bit narrow to say the least and at quite a jaunty angle. TG had been adamant she was not going in and I have to say I was a bit concerned at the thought of coming back out of that gap, so it was a relief to see her emerging through the gap as well. We were by now all in the cave. We headed on through the cave and out the other side to be greeted by loads of young, nosey seals. We carried on up the coast, in, out and under lots of caves and arches. The colour and clarity of the water was wonderful. Just about every rock we passed had its own resident seal sunning itself (yes, we had sunshine!).





Going through the Soay arch

We carried on up the coast to the Soay arches. Looking through them it was easy to see how bumpy the water was, so I wasn't too surprised to see Hubby dear  disappear through, quickly followed by Iain. Murty was happily bobbing around halfway encouraging me through. Off I went, past the point of what seemed like no return! Once out, my next concern was whether I would manage to turn round to go back through or would I have to paddle all the way round Soay to get back to the Cuma which had now arrived. The fact that the Cuma had lunch on it and I was starving was the prompt I needed. Once TG and Mike had a run through, we all about turned and headed back.

After lunch, we headed back to Village bay where it was decided we could have time ashore. Once ashore we all traipsed up to the PO. We had to get postcards with the Puffin stamp on it. Writing the cards caused a bit of a problem. No glasses with me, so I haven't a clue what I wrote, that and the fact after being on moving water so much, I couldn't stand still. I was still bouncing up and down and swaying.

Looking over to the flat calm looking Soay arch from up high

Borerey

Hubby dear, TG, Ian and myself decided to follow the road up the hill, over the ridge then back down to the village.  After numerous muggings by the Bonxies, we were treated to a fantastic view from the top. Back down in the village, we went to school and church (see, we really are good) and watched a gang of young Soay sheep playing around. They really are quite cute, unlike their rather manky looking parents.

Back on board, a huge roast dinner followed by ice cream , hm mm. Then there was some serious discussions going on, such as, which whisky should be opened first.